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When curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. But, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small place earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.